Kakungulu, the new Bugisu tourist attraction

TOURISM | KAKUNGULU | BUGISU

MBALE - After a four hours drive from Kampala City to Mbale City, one is left wondering whether Semei Kakungulu was a statesman, a trader, a developer, a traitor or a religious man. 

This after visiting his elegant home on green Gangama hill, offering one a bird's view of fast urbanising neighbourhoods. 

While there, Minister Of State for tourism Martin Magara says it is time to boost the traffic of tourists to the Elgon Region.

“Having a long menu of attractions adding Wanale Hill and Kakungulu’s home will make domestic and foreign tourists stay longer and have a variety of items to interest them,” said Magara.

“The Bugisu conservative culture that has survived colonialism and western lifestyle influence is an asset in the tourism industry,” said Magara. 

“Kakungulu memoirs from his birth in 1868, through his survival in Busoga, Bugisu, then under the Uganda Protectorate and after the imposition of British protectorate is worth listening to.”

In his various roles Kakungulu was an elephant hunter, guerrilla leader, Buganda kingdom chief, border warlord, British ally in military campaigns, self-imposed king, President of the Busoga Lukiko, and leader of the anti-medicine Bamalaki and Bayudaya separatist sects.

Minister of State for Tourism Martin Magara (right) and Steven Masaba buy coffee, a major cash crop in Bugisu. (All Photos by Titus Kakembo)

When it was revealed that Kakungulu was instrumental in the arrest of Kabaka Mwanga and Omukama Kabalega in Kaberamaido, a tourism ambassador Moses Golola was audibly disturbed.

“He betrayed Kabaka Mwanga?” asked a disturbed Golola who had been beating drums and urging girls to dance. “Return the drums and bark cloth to the car. I am disturbed by this history.”

Journalists were seen googling Kakungulu detailed history before embarking onb a tirade of arguments.

“He brought us the religion of God to replace our small gods,” asserted Steven Emorut. “He made people cover their nudity and live a settled life.”  

According to Uganda Tourism Board (UTB) deputy CEO Bradford Ochieng, Kakungulu led an extraordinary full life.

“He mobilized people to praise God, develop and fight malaria,” noted Ochieng. “This is a man who lived ahead of his time. The testimonies are the trees he planted along Pallisa Mbale Highway long before the world suffered from the effects of climate change.”

He did the same in Ngora and Kaberamaido. In his brick house are the drums he used to summon people for meetings and a small mobile one for the raids carried out to assimilate warrior tribes.

The Mbale Mayor Namugali Cassim says tourism is one way for the city to generate revenue.

“Another Kakungulu item of interest is the Abayudaya (Ugandan Jews) who set up their first Yeshiva in 1920 and the first synagogue in 1923,” said Namugali. “They have begun to thrive again and the number shot to 3000.”

But in 1971 Ugandan leader Idi Amin Dada came to power and banned Jewish practice. Many were forced to convert to other religions. A core group of 300 Jews remained committed to their religion, practising in secret. 

“They are spread across Bugisu living in harmony amongst their non-Jewish neighbors. The largest group is based in Nabugoye, where there is a synagogue and a Jewish primary and secondary school,” says Namugali.

Today Luganda is a widely spoken language in Bugisu. Prayers, Church hymns and football commentaries are delivered in the language. There are places like Namirembe, Nkoko Njeru and Busajabwankuba that owe their identity to Kakungulu presence in the area.  

Next time you travel east a tour of Kakungulu’s home will enrich your knowledge of the country’s history. Sampling Malewa (bamboo shoots) is a must if you are to enjoy Bugisu cuisine.

The Mbale nightlife is very vibrant throughout the week. Kakugulu’s grandson Dr. Shanon Kakungulu says they have kept the house as it was more than 100 years ago.

“The seats, doors and his metallic bed are still in place,” said Shanon. “The Gwanga Muje drum is still as it was when Jaja lived. There is one small drum that he went with to raid other tribes as the British Protectorate spread across eastern Uganda.”

Kakungulu was such an astute soldier, administrator and trader of his time and fought several wars.

“The architecture of his house and the bricks used are another story,” added Shanon. “Kakungulu’s story is worth a movie for people to know where the country was, who was instrumental for the changes and creation of mother Uganda.”